My coworker Bryan and I had planned on going for about a week, but since I was plagued by the attack of the mysterious night biters, I had done little research. Bryan, as far as I know, had no such excuse. So after the 400 house celebration, we ran to the office to figure out when the last bus left Guatemala City for the eight hour ride to Flores, the alternative trip to boarding a more expensive plane.
Form of Transportation #1--The Chicken Bus
Our well-organized journey began at 6:30 pm when we jumped on the chicken bus to Guatemala. The driver and the bouncer/doorman (official title unknown) cram as many people in as possible to make the most money. This means you are in for an extremely uncomfortable ride. People try to pass through the tiny aisles, so if you are sitting at the end, you most likely need to constantly get up to let them by. The awkward crotch-in-the-face situation happens every now and then as the bouncer/doorman pushes his way through the crowd to get money from the new passengers. It’s not the most enjoyable ride, but its bearable because it only lasts 40 minutes.
Form of Transportation #2--The Negotiated Taxi Ride
The moment you step off the bus, the taxistas hound after you. Before leaving, we had asked the bus driver about how much a cab should cost to the Flores terminal--30 Quetzales ($3.75) he said. The first taxi driver that got to us told us he would charge 50Q. Arguing that it was too high, we talked to the next driver who coincidentally Bryan had talked to about soccer on an earlier Guatemala city trip. He offered us 30Q. We walked to his car when taxista #1 threw himself in front of the door, pushing taxista #2 around. “You’re stealing my customers,” he yelled. “25, I’ll give you 25!” Thankfully taxista #2 looked like a bear in facial features and size, and he easily pushed taxista #1 away. Bryan later told me that taxista #2's bear features were how he remembered him. It’s not every day you meet a Guatemalan of such stature. After the scurry and halfway through our drive, taxista #2 said, “You know, it’s 30Q per person.” I was not too happy about that, and I argued until I realized I was getting nowhere. While I sat agitated in the backseat, Bryan, always the “football” enthusiast, chatted the driver up about soccer the rest of the way. When we arrived, we paid 30Q in exact change with no complaints from taxista #2.
Form of Transportation #3--The Semi-Luxury Coach Bus
Our overnight bus ride was uneventful. We fell in and out of sleep as cheesy 80s Spanish rock played in the background. We woke up to a completely different landscape in the background. Antigua is surrounded by mountains, whereas the northern Peten area is flat and dotted with random hills that look like humps of a camel. I loved the area, and tried to find an excuse to come back for work. However, most of the houses we saw were intact and stable brick structures. It seemed as though Constru Casa’s help was not desperately needed in the areas we passed.
I was instantly struck by Flores as we got off the bus. Flores has a very distinct ambiance from Antigua. Although both have a very tranquil feel, I personally think Flores’ streets have much more flavor. Yes, Antigua’s colonial style is beautiful, but to me the view is what makes it really striking. Flores’ surrounding lake gives it a beach town atmosphere and its buildings have much more varied style. They stand at different levels and do not all have the same facade as the buildings do in Antigua. Both Flores and Antigua are very colorful cities, but Flores’ buildings have much more vibrant colors. However, the activity in Flores is lacking. We saw few people as we walked the streets.
We ran into a man who made Rastafarian figures made from coconut.
The beautiful streets of Flores are quite a sight.
Bryan models in front of a colorful wall in Flores.
We thoroughly enjoyed our breakfast after a 10 hour bus ride that we asked for a second portion.
The water was perfect temperature--a great way to cool down from the extreme heat.Form of Transportation #4--The Almost Unsuccessful Hitch-Hike Ride
We stopped in the bus station for information to Tikal, but decided we’d try our luck to hitch a ride. With our thumbs in the air, we walked toward the main road that led to Tikal. We were having no luck, but once we got on the main road, we knew we would be fine. The strong sun beat down on our shoulders, so I took out my umbrella to protect my fair skin. Once on the main road to Tikal, car after car after car passed and we were rejected time and again. For about two hours, we stood by a gas station, hot, sweaty and pissed off for waiting so long.
We went to the airport down the road sure a bus would depart at some point. Instead, we talked to cab drivers willing to give us a ride for a hefty price, of course. So it was back to relying on our thumbs on the road.
Inching down the highway, we were drained from the sun and lack of sleep. A few men at another gas station informed us to wait by a nearby mall entrance to find a car much easier. That was probably the best advice we received all weekend. Within 5 minutes of waiting there, a car picked us up.
Form of Transportation #5--The Public Minibus
The truck dropped us off halfway to Tikal because they were headed in the other direction. Quickly after, we were on a public van, or a minibus, that went to the entrance of Tikal National Park. Unfortunately, that was another 17km to where we actually needed to go. They said they would take us for 40Q/head, but of course we were too cheap to accept.
Bryan wanted to walk it. I was not too keen on the idea, but figured a passing car could pick us up on the way. However, the guard at the entrance said it was forbidden because jaguars could hunt us down. He told us to wait for the next minibus. Although he wasn’t sure when it would arrive, he was sure it would come soon. Well, a bus did pass by within 20 minutes, but it was a private tour so we weren’t allowed to join.
Even after only a month of being in Guatemala, I have quickly learned when a Guatemalan says he is sure another bus is coming, you should trust your instinct that it is not. I don’t know if they outright lie, they truly believe what they say or they just don’t want to admit they don’t know. Either way, I do know not to listen. When a bus is supposedly coming in 10 minutes, that means it’s coming in a half hour to an hour. If it will “come soon,” an hour later you will learn that the last one of the day already passed. Therefore, after the private bus drove by without a care that we were stranded, we asked a man nearby at a restaurant if he would drive us in exchange for some cash.
Form of Transportation #6--A Ride from Guatemala’s Finest
The man didn’t seem to want to drive, but he talked to two policemen who said they would give us a ride on the back of their motorcycles. I was a little wary when I asked how much they wanted and one responded, “whatever you like.” “Well, how about nothing!” I said. Our options were minimal, so we climbed on.
Lucky for me, I rode with the chubby, sketchier policeman--not by choice. As we rode away, he said to the men we passed, “aren’t you jealous.” That earned him one point for a certified stand-up policeman. He drove slowly, far behind the other guy, which made me even more nervous. He earned another point when he said, “don’t be afraid to hold on tighter.” Ick.
Thankfully, Bryan’s policeman stopped every now and then to show him the monkeys and toucans in the jungle. Officer Creep began to do the same for me and told me how lucky we were to be getting rides from them. According to him, it was like our own personal tour.
We were so lucky that just before entering our final destination, they stopped because “the guard won’t like to see us ask you for money.” Ladies and Gentlemen, may I present to you the fine policemen of Guatemala. I thought it was whatever price we wanted, but I wasn’t going to argue with a man with a gun. I don’t even know how many points these truly kind and selfless policemen earned for charging us. In total, we paid 5Q more than if we had just taken the simple direct bus. As Bryan put it, we have more than 5Q worth of memories.
More on Tikal and our many more forms of transportation, coming soon...
Sure hope the trip to Tikal was worth the trouble, discomfort and anxiety it took to get there. I can't wait to read about your impressions of the site. All I remember is climbing up and not being able to get down the VERY s t e e p pyramid. They almost had to get a helicopter to get me down. I wonder how much that would have cost me??!!??
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I'm glad you are safe and sound and back in your critterless home. Remember, NO hitch hiking ALONE! What side trip are you planning to take next? Wish you were in Serbia with us now. The Kabiljos are reminiscing about your last trip here... Ja te volim puno, puno, puno, tvoja mama